Why You Need A JL Audio E-110 Subwoofer

Why You Need A JL Audio E-110 Subwoofer

$1650 black ash, $1850 gloss black

{1200W Amplifier, 14.24h, 13.5w, 16.51d, 53 lbs}

Massively built 10”, DOUBLE SPIDER woofer in sealed cabinet config!

My heading starts “Why you need…” That’s because…

JL Audio’s E-110 subwoofer provides DEEPER, STRONGER & TIGHTER bass than you can get from any pair of towers. You simply cannot get a pair of towers to do what a single E-110 will do. And maybe you’ll even end up with a pair of E-110s!
E-110 provides superior bass performance to any other sub south of its price point as well. Why? Let’s dive in.

*10” Double Spider Driver Design

Take a look at the photo of the E-110 driver. It is freakin’ MASSIVE! It is a cast frame, built like a

brick out house design that can quake your world. JL drivers are purpose built in their own factory in Florida. These drivers are not vendored out like “everybody” else. Contrast the 10” from JL vs the 10” from a B&W for ex.
JL uses a DOUBLE SPIDER design. This allows the driver to be made very deep and keeps the motion pistonic. The double spider construction prevents the driver from ROCKING side to side during its travel.

*Bolted Mounting Technique

JL starts with this monster, long excursion, double spider TEN. They bolt this bad boy to the METAL front baffle of the sub for further rigidity. This mounting technique melds the driver/baffle effectively into one enormous, contiguous piece!
But that isn’t all. The TEN is SO DEEP, virtually a city block (!) that it is pinned into a fitting
on the inside of the REAR baffle of the cabinet. Hence it is pressure fit from the front and rear!
So while everyone else is buying a relatively flimsy driver from a vendor and screwing it into a skinny wood front panel, JL Audio has a dramatically larger/longer driver that BOLTS in the front of a metal baffle and is PINNED to the rear.
There is NO bass wasted by losing mechanical energy in this process. The mechanical integrity of this design is absolutely state of the art- yet priced attainably.
Again, please think of what’s occurring inside the cabinet. JL’s TEN is huge and locked in from the front and rear. The other guys are typically a quarter of the size, are screwed into a flimsy front MDF panel and flap around in the breeze while they try to punch.

*Sealed Enclosure

Ported subs thump and muddle. That’s good enough for some people. That’s NOT good enough for JL and YOU! The sealed enclosure assures you’ll get the tightest & deepest possible bass so that E-110 is a joy for music as well as home theater.

*1200 Watt RMS Amplifier

JL runs a commensurately prodigious power amp to shake hands with its heavy hitting TEN.
All the power of this amp goes to work for you as the driver isn’t just vibrating like a paint shaker off
the front panel of the box.

*Line Level Crossover

JL employs an exquisite line level crossover- the best we’ve ever heard! At 24dB this crossover is fast and allows the sub to play bass while getting out of the way of the mid-bass.
Please note that the JL crossover point you choose determines low AND high pass.
Virtually everyone else fixes the top pass at 85 Hz, so no matter where you set the LOW, you’re stuck with 85 for the top.
E-110 has a set of ins and outs. If you don’t want your R&L speakers to be encumbered with handling bass, just run in/out of this network to your power amp and you’ll free up your wing speakers from playing bass.
Or, if you prefer, let your R&L speakers roll off naturally where they will, and employ E-110 where you like with the on board crossover controls, 25Hz – 130Hz.
My experience is that this augmenting interpolation is entirely kosher and effective. This works because E-110 gets out of the road with stealth precision. The crossover is so fast, the sub is so clean and tight, that it doesn’t endemically muddle the definition of your wing speakers.
JL even has speaker level inputs if that’s your only option.
JL has a variable phase control dial (0-280d) for flexible placement/tuning.

JL Doesn’t Waste Power

JL has a smart twist to keep all your power in the performance range. JL rolls off subsonic energy. The other guys do NOT. Hence they waste power into record warp, for example. JL’s power is all usable and productive for content.

Buy A Pair

JL Audio is a strong proponent of running two subs. In the audio world we’re guilty of saying that a single sub’s location can’t be discerned. Well, some people CAN perceive where a single sub is located. It’s wise to run a pair for balance of location as well as extra impact and dynamics.

Game Plan

If you start by understanding how important a JL sub is to your system, in this case E-110 because it’s such a phenomenal performer at an attainable price- you can wisely plan the rest of your system more easily.

Let the E-110 do the heavy lifting. This will save you big bucks in that your R&L front speakers don’t have to produce prodigious bass. The amp driving those speakers doesn’t have to be a behemoth.

 

If your volume needs are reasonable but you still desire subterranean bass, consider some great affordable speakers such as:

 

Wharfedale Denton 85 $900 Per Pair

Wharfedale Linton $1500 Per Pair with stands

Magnepan MG 1.7i $2400 Per Pair

Klipsch Heresy 4: $3000 Per Pair

What if you DO want your music to play at full scale volume levels? Don’t apologize for it!
Buy a pair of H4s. They’ll play as big and bold as you want- but bass roll off is in the mid 40s. Add an
E-110 and you can have your cake and eat it too!

E-112 $2100 Black Ash, $2300 Gloss Black

(16.23h, 15.5w, 18.39d, 74 lbs, 1500w amp)

If you have a few more buxx in the kitty and don’t mind a larger footprint, why not go nuts?! E-110 is enough sub for the vast majority of our customers. But more of a good thing is just… more FUN!